How to Gather Fabric With Basting Stitches

If you ask five different sewists how they gather fabric, there's a decent chance you might get five different answers. Some people swear by two rows of basting stitches, some swear by three. Others gather on a serger, and some people zigzag stitch over fishing line, and that is just scratching the surface!  I am going to share with you my preferred method for gathering fabric, which can be used for gathering skirts, ruffles, or in any other instance you might need to gather fabric.

Gathering Fabric with Two Rows of Basting Stitches:

My preferred method is to use two rows or basting stitches ¼ of an inch apart (if you have never sewn basting stitches you can learn how to make them in this post).  I find this method allows me to get nice, even gathers, and leaves a path for me to stitch directly between the two rows when I am already to attach my gathered fabric to the main part of my project (for example, attaching a skirt to a bodice or a ruffle to a sleeve). 

Where you stitch your rows of basting stitches will depend on your seam allowance.  If you are sewing a project with a ½ inch seam allowance, then you will run your first row of basting stitches ⅜ of an inch from the edge of the fabric and your second row ⅝ is an inch from the edge, which allows you to sew directly between the two rows with your ½ inch seam allowance.  If my pattern has a ⅜ inch seam allowance, I sew basting stitches at ¼ inch and ½ inch.  In short, whatever your seam allowance, stitch one line  of basting stitches ⅛ of an inch above and one line ⅛ of an inch below.

The sewing process:

• When you sew your basting stitches, be sure to leave a long tail of thread at the beginning and end of the seam. Create your two rows of stitches, 1/4 of an inch apart, as described in my note about seam allowance above.

  

  
  

• Once you have sewn your basting stitches you will gently pull on the bobbin threads with one hand, and slide the fabric along the thread with the other hand until it is gathered to your desired size. I like to pull in the gathering threads on one side until I reach the center, and  grab the thread on the other side and gather that half of the fabric until I reach the center.  This helps keeps things nice and even.

  
  

  

  Gathering by pulling the bobbin threads with one hand nd sliding the fabric with the other

  

  
  

• Once your gathered fabric reaches your desired size (generally the width of whatever you are attaching it to) you will pin in or clip it to the fabric you are attaching it to, right sides together.  Use plenty of clips to keep the gathers from sliding out of place and then take your project to your sewing machine.

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  The fabric is gather to the side of the piece we are attaching it to

  

  Clip or pin the gathered fabric and the piece it is being attached to right sides together.

• Reset your sewing machine back to its normal stitch length and tension, Stitch directly between your two basting stitches according to your project’s seam allowance.  Your gathers may shift along the basting threads as you sew.  Take your time and adjust the gathers with your fingers as you work to keep them nice and even.  If the gathers slide too much and become very loose, take a moment to pause and find the ends of your basting threads again. Gently tug on them to tighten the gathers back up again and then continue stitching.  

  

  Sew directly between the two rows of basting stitches.

  
  

• Once you are finished sewing to attach the gathered fabric, gently tug on your gathering threads to remove them.  It's usually easiest to pull on the bobbin threads to remove that  first, and then the top thread will pull away easily.

  

  You can see the stitching directly between the two rows (I have used contrasting thread to make it easier to see. I recommend you use coordinating thread for your actual project.

  

  Gently pull on the bobbin threads to remove your basting stitches.

  
  

• Turn your project right side out and admire your beautiful gathers!  If you find gathering difficult at first, don't worry - gathering involves a lot of muscle memory, and while the process is fairly straightforward, it takes time for our hands and brain to leave the tiny movements involved in creating the gathers and adjusting the fabric.  If you don't get it perfect right away, it doesn't mean you are “bad” at it, it just means you need a bit more practice to build up that muscle memory.  

Beautiful and tidy gathers!

In my next post I will show how I build on this technique to quickly and easily gather skirts and ruffles so that your gathers come out perfectly even and balanced.